
Learning how to bid landscaping jobs is cheaper than learning it from a patio that ate your whole month. If you priced a job at $9,000 and it cost you $8,700 to build, you didn't win a job. You bought yourself a very tiring weekend.
Most landscapers don't lose money because they work slow. They lose it because the price was wrong before the first shovel hit the ground: labor hours guessed, the truck and trailer left out, overhead forgotten, profit squeezed to "match the other guy". This guide walks through landscaping pricing the way it actually works on a jobsite, with a full worked example at the end.
Step 1: Do the site visit like it's already your job
Every good landscaping estimate starts with a walk around the property with the homeowner or property manager. You are not just measuring. You are finding the things that will blow up your hours later.
- Access: can a skid steer get to the backyard, or is everything going through a 36 inch gate by wheelbarrow? That one detail can double the labor.
- Grade and drainage: where does the water go when it rains? A patio that ends up in a low spot turns into a callback.
- Soil and existing material: sod to strip, roots, rock, old concrete to break out. Everything you remove has to go somewhere, and disposal costs money.
- Utilities and irrigation: sprinkler lines, low voltage lighting, gas lines. Call 811 before you dig and note anything that needs rerouting.
- What the client actually wants: ask about budget, timeline, style and how they will use the space. A client who says "we host every weekend" is telling you what to sell.
Take photos and notes on your phone while you walk. You will forget half of it by the time you sit down to price.
Step 2: Measure everything and write down the quantities
Before any price, get quantities. Square feet of patio, linear feet of edging and wall, cubic yards of base and mulch, number of plants by size, square feet of sod, zones of irrigation. Measure with a wheel or a laser, or use satellite measuring tools for a first pass and confirm on site.
Then add waste. Pavers get cut, sod edges get trimmed, mulch settles. How much waste to add depends on the pattern, the shape and your crew, so track it on your own jobs instead of borrowing a number from the internet.
Step 3: Price labor with your burdened rate, not the hourly wage
Labor is where most landscaping bids go wrong. The method is simple: estimate the labor hours, then multiply by your burdened labor rate.
Labor hours = crew size × hours per day × days on the job. Use your own history. If your crew laid a similar patio last spring in three days, that is a better number than any chart. Include setup, cleanup, material runs and drive time to the site.
Burdened labor rate is what one hour of an employee really costs you, not what they see on the paycheck. Start with the wage, then add:
- Employer payroll taxes
- Workers' comp and liability insurance tied to payroll
- Paid time off, holidays and any benefits
- Non-billable hours: rain days, shop time, training, equipment maintenance
Your accountant can help you calculate it from last year's payroll. Do it once, update it every year, and never price labor at the bare wage again. That gap is where a lot of landscaping profit disappears.
Step 4: Materials plus a markup
List every material with its quantity and your real cost, delivered. Pavers, base gravel, bedding sand, edge restraint, polymeric sand, fabric, plants, mulch, soil, stone, irrigation parts, lighting.
Then add a markup on materials. The markup is not greed. It pays for the time spent ordering, picking up, handling, returning the wrong pallet and replacing the plant that died in the first week. If you install materials at cost, you are running a free delivery service.
Step 5: Equipment, disposal and the truck
This is the line that gets forgotten the most. Rented equipment is easy to remember because there is an invoice. Owned equipment is not free just because it is paid off: it wears out, needs repairs and will need to be replaced.
Charge for rentals (skid steer, plate compactor, sod cutter, trencher), dumpsters or dump fees, and the cost of your own machines per hour or per day. For vehicles, some contractors use the IRS standard mileage rate as a reference point for what a mile of driving really costs, then adjust for trucks and trailers that cost more to run.
Step 6: Overhead, the cost of keeping the lights on
Overhead is everything you pay whether or not a crew is working today: office rent, yard, insurance not tied to payroll, software, phones, accounting, your own salary for estimating and sales, and marketing.
A common way to recover it is per billable labor hour. Add up your yearly overhead, divide by the billable hours your crews worked last year, and you get a dollar amount per hour to add to every job. If you need a starting point for organizing those costs, the SBA's guide to managing business finances is a decent place to begin.
Yes, marketing belongs in overhead. The ads that brought this client in cost money, and that money comes out of every job you sign. If you don't know how much you spend to get one signed job, see how we map that in our page about marketing for contractors.
Step 7: Profit, and why markup is not margin
After labor, materials, equipment and overhead, you have your break-even. Profit goes on top. The trap: a 15% markup on cost does not give you a 15% profit margin.
If your cost is $10,000 and you add 15%, the price is $11,500 and your margin is $1,500 divided by $11,500, which is about 13%. To hit a 15% margin, divide the cost by 0.85 instead: $10,000 / 0.85 = about $11,765. Small difference on one job, real money over a season.
A worked example: pricing a paver patio
The numbers below are a hypothetical example to show the method. They are not market prices, not averages, and not what you should charge. Plug in your own costs.
The job: a 400 square foot paver patio in a backyard with skid steer access. The example crew is three people, and the estimator expects three days of eight hours each.
| Line | How it's calculated (example) | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Labor | 3 people × 8 hours × 3 days = 72 hours × $38 burdened rate | $2,736 |
| Pavers | 400 sq ft + 10% waste = 440 sq ft × $4.50 | $1,980 |
| Base gravel | 8 cubic yards × $45 | $360 |
| Bedding sand | 1.5 cubic yards × $50 | $75 |
| Edge restraint, fabric, polymeric sand | Lump sum | $300 |
| Equipment rental | Skid steer and plate compactor, 2 days | $650 |
| Disposal | Excavated soil and sod | $400 |
| Overhead | 72 labor hours × $20 per hour | $1,440 |
| Materials markup | 15% on $2,715 of materials | $407 |
| Break-even | $8,348 | |
| Price at 15% margin | $8,348 / 0.85, rounded | $9,850 |
In this example, the patio prices at about $24.60 per square foot. Notice how much of that is not pavers: labor, equipment, disposal and overhead are more than half the price. That is why the landscaper who prices by "paver cost times two" is sometimes rich and sometimes broke, and never knows which.
After the job, compare the estimate with what actually happened. Did it take 72 hours or 90? Did you need 8 yards of base or 10? That comparison is what makes your next bid better than this one.
Commercial vs residential landscaping bids
The math is the same. Almost everything around it changes.
- Residential: the homeowner sees one number and decides with their gut as much as their calculator. Photos of past work, a clear scope and options matter. Offering two or three versions (a basic patio, one with a seat wall, one with lighting) lets the client choose instead of comparing you line by line with the cheaper guy.
- Commercial: you often bid against a spec or an RFP, with required insurance certificates, sometimes bonding, and pricing broken into units or visits. Maintenance contracts are priced per visit or per season across many properties, and a small error in hours per visit multiplies across the whole contract. Read the spec twice and price exactly what is written, then list anything you excluded.
Commercial work can keep crews busy in a steady way. Residential design and build work usually carries a higher ticket per job. Many companies do both, but price them with separate assumptions.
Presenting the bid
A landscaping bid is a sales document, not just a price. A good one includes:
- A clear scope: what is included, in plain words
- Exclusions: what is not included (permits, irrigation repair, plant warranty limits)
- Options, when they make sense
- Timeline and what the client needs to do before you start
- Payment schedule: deposit, progress payment, final payment
- Photos of similar jobs you did, and a few reviews
Walk the client through it in person or on a call whenever you can. A PDF sent by email with no conversation is the easiest thing in the world to ignore. Keep every bid in one place, like a CRM built for contractors, so you know what's open, what was won and what was lost, and why.
Following up without being annoying
A bid nobody follows up on is easy to lose, even when the price was right. Before you leave the meeting, agree on when you will talk again. Then call on that day. Ask if they have questions, if the scope still fits, if the timing works.
If you lost the bid, ask why. "Price" is useful. "We went with someone who could start sooner" is useful. Each answer tells you whether your pricing, your presentation or your schedule needs work.
Better bids need more of the right leads
Perfect pricing doesn't help if you only get three bid requests a month and two are tire kickers. The number that ties everything together is how much it costs you to sign one job, from the ad to the contract. Across our residential construction campaigns, the average cost per signed contract is about $1,714. Our averages; results vary by trade, region, price and sales process.
When you know that number, you can put it in your overhead with confidence and stop guessing which ad brought the $30,000 backyard. If you want to plan the year around it, read our guide to a marketing plan for a construction company.
Next step: take your last three landscaping bids and rebuild them with the method above. If the numbers surprise you, you found the leak. If you also want to see how many of your leads turn into signed jobs, ask us for a free audit of your ads and lead sources.
Frequently asked questions
How do you calculate a landscaping bid?
Add labor hours times your burdened labor rate, materials with a markup, equipment and disposal, and your overhead per labor hour. That gives you break-even. Then add profit by dividing the cost by one minus your target margin.
What is a burdened labor rate in landscaping?
It is the full cost of one hour of an employee, not just the wage. It includes payroll taxes, workers' comp, insurance, paid time off and non-billable hours like rain days and shop time. Pricing labor at the bare wage is one of the most common reasons landscaping jobs lose money.
Should I charge by the hour or by the job?
Most homeowners prefer a fixed price for installs, because they want to know the total before they sign. You still calculate that price from hours and costs, you just present one number. Hourly or time and materials pricing can make sense for small repairs or work with a lot of unknowns.
How much markup should landscapers put on materials?
There is no single right number, and it varies by company and market. The markup should cover the time spent ordering, picking up, handling and replacing materials. Track those costs on your own jobs and set a markup that covers them.
What's the difference between markup and margin?
Markup is a percentage added to cost. Margin is the percentage of the final price that is profit. A 15% markup on $10,000 gives a price of $11,500 and a margin of about 13%, so if you want a true 15% margin, divide cost by 0.85.
How do I bid commercial landscaping maintenance contracts?
Break the work into visits and tasks, estimate hours per visit for each property, and multiply by the number of visits in the season. Read the spec or RFP carefully, include the insurance and paperwork it requires, and list any exclusions. Small errors in hours per visit multiply across the whole contract.